Brand10 min read
Reading a skincare label in Pakistan: 5 ingredients to walk away from
Local pharmacy shelves contain ingredients that are restricted or banned in most international markets. Here's how to spot them in 30 seconds.
The Pakistani cosmetics market is less regulated than the EU, US, or UK markets. Ingredients restricted overseas are often sold here freely, sometimes at concentrations that would be illegal elsewhere. The packaging usually doesn't disclose this clearly.
This is how to read a label and walk away from the worst offenders.
1. Hydroquinone above 2%
Hydroquinone is a strong skin-lightening compound that works by suppressing melanin production. The EU bans it in cosmetics entirely. The US restricts it to prescription above 4% and OTC below 2%. Pakistan does not enforce a concentration cap.
What to look for on the label: - "Hydroquinone" — written explicitly - "Hydrochinone" — alternate spelling, same compound - 1,4-Dihydroxybenzene — chemical name - Anything labelled 4%, 6%, 8% with "skin lightening" or "fairness" claims
Why to walk away: - Long-term use causes ochronosis — a permanent blue-grey discolouration that's much harder to treat than the original pigmentation it was meant to fade - Above 4% can cause exogenous ochronosis within 6–12 months in melanin-rich skin - The "results in 7 days" claim almost always means the product also contains undisclosed steroids or mercury
The safe alternative: niacinamide at 2–5%, tranexamic acid, azelaic acid. All evidence-backed for hyperpigmentation, none cause ochronosis or skin damage.
2. Mercury salts (any form)
Mercury is illegal as a cosmetic ingredient in every developed market. It's still found in skin-lightening creams sold in Pakistan, particularly imports from certain Southeast Asian countries that bypass formal cosmetic regulation.
What to look for: - "Mercurous chloride", "calomel", "mercuric chloride" - "Hg" anywhere in the ingredient list - Sometimes labelled euphemistically as "skin-purifying complex" with no INCI list provided
Why to walk away: - Causes kidney damage with chronic absorption - Causes skin atrophy (the skin literally thins) - Causes neurological symptoms (tremor, irritability, memory issues) at higher exposures - Bioaccumulates — your body doesn't clear it
A bottle without a full INCI list is a bottle to put back on the shelf. International law requires every cosmetic to disclose every ingredient. If the label only shows marketing copy, assume something's hidden.
3. Steroids — disguised as "renewal" or "purifying"
Topical steroids (clobetasol, mometasone, betamethasone) are legitimate prescription medicines for specific conditions. They are also illegally added to cosmetic creams to produce immediate visible "improvement" — the steroid suppresses inflammation so skin looks brighter and smoother within days.
